Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Stuff we noticed


Back home and going through the zillion photos we took, we noticed some things that might have gotten little notice on the tour.  Here are some photos to illustrate our point.

Drug sale- Dublin
Drug-money swap
Here’s a blown up section of the photo.  Also I’m curious about the third guy above—the one watching the deal.  Driver Mike also saw this deal go down.

Did you notice how many flower boxes there were on commercial buildings all over Ireland.  Del, this picture was taken at #28 West RYAN Street in Dublin.
Flowers bldg, Ryan Street Dublin
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   Two questions about this shot:
  1.  Where was it taken? (2 points)
2. What is the name of the room in this shot? (50 points)
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This shot was taken at the Cliffs of Moher. You knew that.  But what are the little dots on the ledge shelves?  Below is a blow-up photo of those dots—with a Google photo inserted just for fun. 

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The ledges were alive with PUFFINS.  Cool, eh?  Wish we could have seen ‘em up close.
St Pat's quilt floor

The tiled floor of St. Patricks sure looked like a quilt in many places.

Irish Stew-cook carrotsWhat do you note about this shot?  That it is the Irish Stew we had on the road between Dublin and Galway?   That it includes the brown bread we enjoyed every evening?  That we ate a lot of cooked carrots in Ireland?  That the photo is upside down?

You may have seen Molly Malone selling cockles and mussels on the streets of Dublin when Batt pointed her out as we drove by.  But did you see the Leprechaun she was about to run down with her two-wheeled barrow.   I got this shot walking back to our meeting point at the restaurant where we had lunch.

EdnaLee & busker

You know EdnaLee loves music.  She might remember the name of this street musician at the Cliffs of Moher.  Did you notice his name?  Do you know what they call such street musicians in Ireland?   See that white sign on his guitar case?  It has the answer to these questions.

That photo of mead pitchers near the top of this posting--it was taken inside Bunratty Castle.   A sign outside the room called it the Earl’s Buttery. 
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That’s enough for this edition of Smithing Ireland.  I only posted this one because Trudy sent me a note saying she missed reading our blog updates, so it's her fault. 

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Day 9: Moher, Bunratty, farewell


Day 9–Moher, Bunratty, & farewell
I’m starting this note during a 3 hour layover at Chicago’s O’Hare airport and will finish it at home. We were all ready for a beer when we got off that 8 hour flight in very cramped quarters on our Boing 757—a smaller plane then we’d hoped for.

But even confinement in the airplane prison for 8 hours couldn’t diminish the praise for our tour of Ireland.

Yesterday we marveled at the Cliffs of Moher. (When you say the “h” in Moher, you have to make a little throat-clearing sound.)

Edna Lee especially enjoyed this busker at the Cliffs of Moher.  Others we saw around Ireland played concertinas, tin whistles, or fiddles.
clip_image004At the cliffs we stood at the top and watched floating white dots that were Seagulls flying above the crashing surf 600 feet below.  It took binoculars to see them, but some ledges were lined with dozens of Puffins.   The whole scene was truly awsome!  The hundred photos we took of the site cannot begin to do justice to it.
clip_image006We capped the day and the trip with a stay at Bunratty Castle Hotel, shopping in little Bunratty village and touring the restored castle. As big as it is and as low as the upkeep would be (no painting, no electricity, etc.) we certainly wouldn’t want to live there.
imageWe went back to the castle for a Medieval Banquet that evening—and here’s the best part—of the 200 people at the banquet, guess who was chosen Lord and Lady to preside over the festivities. Bill and Jan Brass.  Note the crowns.What fun. We had ribs, chicken, soup, and veggies—but no silverware other than a sharp knife. The entertainment was excellent—violin, harp, madrigal singers.

Although our little farewell party was held in County Clare (Bunratty) rather than County Limerick, several limericks were written and composed just for that occasion.

There are salutes by the dozens in lore
There’s Caesar’s and Nixon’s and more
    But if anyone asks ya,
    The best’s from Nebraska.
It’s the Smith clan’s jolly High Four
There once were 2 frugal lads, and a lass
Whose names were Trudy, Bob and Bill Brass.
    When asked for a hand-out
    They would give out a shout
"You can kiss our green Irish ass!"
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Whether Sneem, Dublin, or Kilkearney,
Or a stone in the wall at Blarney
    Batt’s got a poem
    For wherever you roam.
Even one for a loo in Killarney

To get the joke of this last limerick, you have to understand that the ancestral home of the O’Sullivans was not fertile land, nor a place a commoner could eke out more than a subsistence living. It also takes some creativity and poetic license to rhyme “Ballyferriter.”

A young lady’s father disinherited her.
Not a penny nor farthing he merited her.
    She said, “Oh that’s funny.
    He couldn’t have had money
Me father’s from Ballyferriter,

Since we’re recording limericks here, let’s include this one actually written in County Limerick on our first day to commemorate a spontaneous burst of gaity by two of our company.

‘Twas in Adare that Jeanne and Bob
Were surrounded by a tourist mob.
    They were a hit big
    As they danced a fine jig
Pretty enough to make an Irishman sob.
Batt Burns added to the considerable laughter with yet another of his tales.   We almost hated to bring that gathering to a close so we could get to the banquet on time.
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The above photo of The Cousins was taken in County Clare a few miles northwest of the Cliffs of Moher. At the same time we took photos with the Custer Co. Chief and the Columbus, OH Dispatch, pics which will be submitted for publication.

Ireland has declared this the year of “gathering” throughout the country, and the Smith Cousins along with spouses and friends certainly contributed to that effort.

When you have finished reading the above notes and studying the photos, it is only fitting that you sing these verses written by some of our tour leaders.  It is to be sung to the tune of “When Irish Eyes Are Smiling.”

When Irish Smiths are singing
All the world is bright and gay
There’s Bill and Bob and Trudy
And also Al and Kay.


‘Tis Ric and Rosemary
Bob and Nancy as well.
Deo, Greg, and Colleen
Becky and Bobbi and Del


We can’t ignore the in-laws
And the many friends alike.
Both Jeannes, Kay and Jan and Jan
Then Don and and Mike and Mike.


Pat and Ruth and Edna-Lee
Lorene, and Bert and Jodi
Jean and Dave and Betty
And surely we’ve got a Shirley.


When Irish Smiths are singing
Nebraska grows with pride
But ‘cross the ‘Lantic Ocean
The people there did cry.


Now keep the volume real low”
Cuz’ none can carry a tune
They’ll throw us out of Ireland
We’ll be seeing you home real soon!

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Day 8: Inishmore


This Smith family is about to kill me off. We got off the boat this evening and they immediately went to a pub.
 
I napped.
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We just finished dinner at the hotel and once again The Cousins (as we’ve come to call them) and a few of their hardy spouses and friends are off to another Galway pub or two or three, led by that master pubfinder Eric the Red (his old Norse name). 
 
And where am I? In my room at the Imperial Hotel putting together this blog, that’s where.
 
Incidentally, “Imperial Hotel” is an odd name for an inn in a town and country that is the opposite of imperial-- having been conquered by Vikings, Normans, and English but never having imperial power over anyone else—and often not over itself.
 
But I digress. This is not a history lesson. And tonight it won’t be much of a travel blog, either—just a brief summary of day number 8 of the Smith Cousins Tour of Ireland, 2013. Oh, and some photos.
 
Inishmore is the largest of the three Aran Islands just off clip_image004of Galway on Ireland’s west coast. We spent the day getting there, walking its very rocky limestone terrain, and getting back. Here you see two prominent features of Inishmore: clip_image007slab limestone that was formed at the bottom of the sea south of the equator millions of years ago and limestone rock walls. 
If our Inishmore-born-and-raised minibus driver is to believed, there are 3000 miles of rock walls on the 3 mile-long island. That seems an exaggeration, but then again there is an awful lot of ‘em.
Perhaps the most fascinating site on Inishmore is Dun Aengus, described as a “pre-Christian fort, the most magnificent barbaric monument in Europe.” I don’t know clip_image005clip_image009that I would say it is magnificent, but it is amazing. What’s equally amazing is that none of us died while making the long steep climb from the island floor to this very high point on the sea—not even those few hardy souls among us who opted out of the 3 mile bus ride to the base of the hill.
 
Below is a photo of a guy hanging sitting on the cliff you see in a previous photo, his legs hanging over the 100 ft. drop into the Atlantic Ocean. Those are definitely not my feet.
 
OK, that’s the end of my report of our day. Now for your viewing pleasure, here are a few random photos of previous days of our adventure.
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Oops. On the stained glass window picture, I wrote "Seamas" when I should have written "James."   Our Gaelic speaking guide Batt Burns said that translated from Gaelic, Seamas is James.

AN IRISH BLESSING:
May the sound of happy music, And the lilt of Irish laughter, fill your heart with gladness, that stays forever after.










Wednesday, July 24, 2013

DAYS 5, 6, & 7

 

Jamison Whiskey, Blarney, Waterford, Rock of Cashel, Irish National Stud, St. Patricks, Book of Kells, and more.

clip_image004 How is this for a way to start off your day?  The first thing you might notice about Nancy B., Edna Lee A., Trudy W., and Ric P. is that they are drinking shots. An even closer look shows no less than three shots of whiskey sitting in front of each.   And that glass of water.

That is half of our taste testers at the end of our tour of the Jamison Irish Whiskey Distillery in Midleton, Ireland. The other half were the four B’s—Becky F., Bob B., another Bob B, and Bert K., our imbedded whiskey connoisseur. He said of the three tested—Jack Daniels, Johnny Walker, and Jamison—the best was Jamison but he would still recommend Canadian Classic 12.

If you don’t think we had lots of fun and laughs at the Jamison, you don’t know these people. To top it off, our guide was Miss Bubbly Sprits of Ireland clip_image006five years running. We weren’t two minutes into the tour before she was high-fouring with the lot of us. If you want to know her name, ask Betty who took a very, very close-up of her nametag.

Everyone’s distillery tour ticket included on the stub a coupon for a free glass of Jamison whiskey—and everyone cashed in the stub—some for a short glass straight up and some for a Jamison cocktail with ginger ale and lime.

We interrupt this blog for a brief commercial for Irish food and weather. Relatives and friends who visited Ireland in years past had told us they had a hard time finding food they liked. Either something has changed or they were expecting cheeseburgers and fries. Those on this tour pretty much agree that we’ve eaten very clip_image008well—too well, probably, as we’ve surely added pound or five. We are especially fond of what they call bacon but we’d call ham. We asked some locals about it and those who had been to America were highly critical of our wimpy, thin bacon.

Oh, there seems to be one exception to our appreciation of Irish cuisine. No one is fond of black pudding—whichBlack pudding we take to be perhaps blood sausage. On the other end of the scale, we’ve each found at least one culinary delight we are especially fond of. For Rosemary it came at breakfast one morning when the server asked, “What would you like on your oatmeal? Milk, whiskey, or Bailey’s Irish Cream.” Don is concerned that she’ll get used to such decadence and his Bailey’s budget will increase considerably upon return home.

We were not surprised to see how popular Guinness beer is here, but honoring the spirit of this tour, many of us opted for another Irish favorite, Smithwick beer. I was surprised to see how popular Heineken is—every pub seems to have all three of these on tap. Guinness is headquartered in Dublin, and the family has been very clip_image010generous with their profits, funding many public buildings and events.

Concerning the weather . . .  When we arrived, Ireland was in the midst of the hottest stretch of weather they’d seen in a decade with daily highs in the low 80’s.  And the southern half had gone 14 days without a trace of rain.  That continued for our first 3 days here.   Since then it has still been nice—warm enough with only occasional light showers.  Most of us had packed wrong, under the assumption that the guide books were right about rain every day and high’s in the 60’s.

In addition to Jamison’s, Monday’s schedule included an obligatory stop at Blarney Castle. A few brave souls imageopted for the climb and the kissing, while the rest of us had lunch, shopped, and toured the gardens. As we left Blarney, tour guide Batt used the bus’s PA system to relay to the following story to those who did the kissing.

“I see that Blarney Castle made the local news last night. You know those guys who help you lean over backward to kiss the stone? Well one of those guys and his supervisor got into a tiff at closing time last night, and the supervisor fired him. He stormed off in a huff, but came back later that evening and peed on the Blarney Stone.”  This story went over big with those who hadn’t kissed it.

The Irish National Stud. That’s the whole name.  We got an extensive horse sex education at that expansive complex just outside Kildare, I can tell you. We shan’t recount all the details on this G-rated blog, but it suffices to say that when a mare’s owner pays between $6000 and $60,000 to have it bred to a high quality thoroughbred, the handlers don’t leave horse romance to chance. Great care is taken to ensure the safety of both animals—the walls of the action center [not the building’s official name] are padded, the floor is softened, and they are pampered with everything short of  post-mating cigarettes.

The first stud horse we saw was named Big Bad Bob. What a coincidence! We had two of those on the tour.

clip_image012Kay Brass was especially interested in the horses and their treatment at this commercial and apparently quite profitable operation. So were others among including the ladies you see in the photo below . These ladies insisted on having their photo taken with our guide Rob. Here we’ve blown-up the label on Rob’s shirt to help you understand their fascination with him.

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clip_image016Waterford Crystal. Now we know why it’s so expensive. The craftsmen who design, blow, cut, and polish crystal pieces must apprentice a minimum of five years—sometimes eight—before they’re allowed to work on their own. We walked through the process and were impressed with the craftsmanship and quality. We tried to get Bob to buy Jeannie the $60,000 crystal vanity set and he’d probably have done it, but she declined, saying it wouldn’t match the décor of their Panther Lake cabin.

clip_image018After a night in Dublin (Ireland’s largest city, population 1.3 million), tours of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the Book of Kells, we jumped onto the super highway for a straight shot across Ireland’s biggest river—the Shannon—the dividing line between east and west. We’ll spend two nights in Galway. It was along this freeway that we noted that when you’re traveling with 33 people on a 40 foot bus, a pit stop is a little more complicated than a quick swing off of I-80 into a Seven-Eleven for your wife.

On this drive—and all the others—Batt expounded on stories from the history and economy of each county and village. We learned a great deal about the southern half of Ireland on this trip. We learned, for example, that about 30 years ago a politician ran on a “no property tax” platform. He won and gradually property tax was eliminated in Ireland—although it is beginning to slowly come back into practice. Our guide says that decrease in government funding helped to fuel the crash of the Irish economy after the “Celtic Tiger” that took place from the early 1990’s up to 2006—an era that would compare to the “irrational exuberance” in the U.S. prior to 2008.

Whoa! This is getting far too serious for a vacation blog. Time for some photos. These seem to indicate that not everyone on the bus was not equally attentive to our guide’s history lessons.

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clip_image022These sleepers woke up just in time to learn that about 2/3rds in Ireland have National Health Insurance and the other third are insured by their employers. Batt says health care is not nearly as expensive here as in the U.S. He spends a good deal of time in the U.S. each year, teaching or performing at colleges and Irish cultural events.

clip_image026Even so, Batt Burns is a fine seanachie. Very fine. On our first evening in Galway he gave us a private performance—one very like those he has staged in 35 states in America, including multiple times at the huge Irish festival in Dublin, OH. His Frank O’Conner story may have been the best, but the poems by Y.B. Yates were moving as were his stories about about the priests and bachelors in Sneem.

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We’ll close this blog with this  from Oscar Wilde, whom we met in a small park in Dublin.

“I always pass on good advice. It is the only thing to do with it. It is never any use to oneself.”

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Q U I Z # 2

The following comes to you courtesy of Dee, Colleen, and probably somebody else, but the situations alluded are certainly not restricted to them and not to only the cousins.
 
1. clip_image004 How many Smith cousins does it take to turn on an Irish shower? 
 
2. How many just gave up and took a bath because they couldn’t figure it out?
 
3. How many Smith cousins does it take to plug in an Irish electricity adapter?
 
4. Which part of her anatomy did one cousin finally use to get the adapter prongs into the socket holes? 
A. right elbow  B. right fist    C. right leg  D. right ear
 
5. How many Smith Cousins does it take to remember how to say “Thank you” in Gaelic?
 
6. How many Smith cousins does it take to flush an Irish toilet?
 
7. So far anyway, how many Smith cousins have walked in to the gender opposite loo? (Caution: This answer is subject to change from hour to hour)
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8. How many Smith cousins know which side of an Irish road to drive on? 
 
9 How many Smith cousins does it take to cross an Irish road?
 
clip_image00910. How many Smith cousins does it take to open the gate to get in to the Japanese Gardens at the Irish National Stud?
 
BONUS: How many male Smith Cousins have been officially declared “National Stud?” (Hint, the initials are BBB.)
 
I am taking the liberty of offering hints even though the authors of this quiz didn’t grant permission to do so.
H I N T S
1. Look at the photo accompanying the question, then count the girls on this tour.
2. How many are named Rosemary
3. How of these cousins have a truly Irish last name?  (And just for fun, what is that last name?)
4. Choice D is wrong, but she might have tried that before succeeding
5. Thank you in Gaelic is “go raibh maith agat.” Count the words.
6. No clue—some aren’t admitting it.
7. Look at the Gaelic words above—those found on restroom doors—and then you decide which loo you would use.    Second hint: Your first guess was wrong.
8. I’ll give you the answer. All of ‘em. Now that you know, here’s a follow-up question: How many instinctively remember the answer the instant the answer is needed?
9. See hint #8, then calculate how many pedestrian cousins are about to step off the curb together.
10. You can look at the graphic with this question, but I doubt it will help. It certainly didn’t help them. 
 
BONUS SECOND HINT: See the photo in another episode of our Smithing Ireland blog. 



IRISH SMILE
There are many good reasons for drinking,
One has just entered my head-
If a man doesn't drink when he's living,
How the hell can he drink when he's dead?
 

























Monday, July 22, 2013

DAY 4: Ballyferriter

Ah, 'tis a fine evening in Ireland. After a splendid dinner at one of the finest hotels in Waterford, we went for a stroll along the harbor where we admired sailboats and watched a bagpiper a squeezin’ his bag and the drummers a drummin’.

I tell you that at the outset so that you’ll know why this blog posting is once again unencumbered with detailed stories, cleverness, and humor. I joined the walk rather than sit in a warmer-then-need-be third floor hotel room composing a champion blog and adding pictures.
 
Sunday morning on our route from Sneem to Ballyferriter we drove through the incredibly beautiful Killarney National Park. Again our journey was enriched a great clip_image004deal by guide Batt Burns’ running narrative about the history, culture, economics, etc. of each area we passed through—that information and every 30 miles or so, a story that set us all to laughing. Oh, and now and again he recited a poet’s work that captures the spirit of the locale at some point in history.
 
In Killarney thirty (or as we’ve learned to say, tharty) of us went to Mass at the impressive Francisican church (pronounced charch). They couldn’t go to the even more impressive St. Mary’s Cathedral because this was the Sunday a new bishop was being installed. I say that tharty went to charch. The other three of us had every intention of going, but out of necessity we visited the public loo across the street. Our business took just long enough that when we emerged, the faithful were already focused on their relationship with the Lord, and we dare not risk the displeasure of either by causing a distraction. And anyway two of us aren’t Catholic and the third only casually so, and then there was in the air the smell of a nearby coffee shop and bakery.
 
It was on to Dingle for lunch at John Benny’s where we shared a few orders of Sticky Toffee Pudding at each table—some of us deliberately using a bigger spoon than his neighbor, or at least that was the accusation at my table.
We drove past ancient stone “beehive hutches” on the hillsides above the ocean. Batt said the expansive Inch Beach was busier than he had ever seen it—with the much warmer than usual weather today and the whole previous week. Some scenes of the Robert Mitchum movie “Ryan’s Daughter” were filmed on that beach and in surrounding areas. Indeed, Batt tells us that the filming of that movie transformed the heretofore little-clip_image006noticed Dingle, what with the economic shot in the arm by the extended filming process and the attention the area enjoyed later as if it were rediscovered as a must-see portion of the Ring of Kerry. 
 
The now uninhabited Blasket Islands have a fascinating history I dare not attempt to summarize here. It suffices to say we enjoyed our stop at the Blasket Interpretative Center, our last stop before Ballyferriter.
 
No question, the highlight of the day was our visit to and stay in the ancestral home of the fifteen Smith cousins on this trip. That was Ballyferriter or as all local signs say in Gaelic, Baile an Fheirearaigh, meaning "Ferriter's townland." The cousins are fairly sure there are Farritorclip_image008 (American spelling) relatives in their past, but they know for a fact that they are all descendents of Patrick O’Sullivan of Ballyferritor, County Kerry, Ireland.
 
Ballyferriter <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballyferriter> is the first (and probably the only) small village on our tour that isn’t heavily focused on tourism. There isn't a single souvenir shop to be seen.  We never could determine the resident population of the village, but our guesses ran from 100 to 300. There are, however, no fewer than five pubs serving the village and surrounding area.  In the summer the population grows because of people with nearby summer homes, the Irish Language Summer School, and tourism.
 
Gaelic (or simply “Irish” as the locals insist) is the first and primary language of at least 75% of the residents of the village and surround lands. All public signs are in Gaelic, although some have an English translation in smaller letters below. You know how at a local watering hole you will find raffle tickets to raise money for an clip_image012unfortunate neighbor? There is a book of raffle tickets on the bar at our hotel, and every word is sprinted in Gaelic. The menu board outside the little café was in Gaelic. There was a good deal more Gaelic than English in that town.
 
When we walked the half-block to the village church we heard Traditional Irish Music and the voices of people obviously enjoying themselves. We hailed some young people headed up there and learned that twice every summer students ages 14 to 18 come from all across Ireland to Ballyferriter for a three-week Irish Language Immersion program. Some already speak the Gaelic tongue fluently, others come to become fluent. They study the language, their Gaelic heritage, and customs like the Irish dancing we were privileged to watch them enjoy. This is one among many efforts being made all over Ireland, to resurrect the Irish language the English had for centuries tried to eradicate.
 
Thanks to special efforts by Batt, Bill Brass and I met local character and historian Danny Sheehie. When his efforts failed to locate the parish priest who we thought could guide us to the exact cemetery where we would clip_image014find ancestral O’Sullivan graves, Danny drove Bill to the closest one. What an experience that was. Graves there went back into the 1300’s. There were lots of O’Sullivans (none spelled this American way, of course) so I was sure we’d found the right one now. Danny assured us that we’d find just as many O’Sullivans in each of the five Ferriter-townland cemeteries, so there was no way of knowing without records from the church.
 
We had a group photo if the cousins taken in front of that church as we left Ballyferriter Monday morning.

I could go on and on about our visit to Ballyferriter, but it is after 1:00 a.m. and we have an early call tomorrow morning.
 
Irish toast; May the ten toes of your feet steer you clear of all misfortune, and may your doctor never earn a dollar out of you.