Sunday, July 21, 2013

Day 3: Ring of Kerry

First, a major apology to our millions of readers. Keeping a blog and a full travel schedule with this Smith gang is proving more challenging than anticipated. We started the blog a day behind and the further we go the behinder we get.
I hate to disappoint, but we are forced to deliver a simple “and then we” account of our activities on Saturday, day 3—an account lacking the rich detail and color commentary it deserves. It is our intention to later embellish.
DAY 3: Saturday
After a much needed and restorative night of sleep, we lingered over a fine breakfast at Sneem Hotel—and this was not the sort of continental breakfast one is subjected to at a Holiday Express—we were treated to an hour of Irish cultural edification by our learned and entertaining guide, Batt Burns. His knowledge of All Things Irish continues to add a much deeper appreciation of our tour than we would otherwise enjoy.
Then we hit the road to see the “second best Ring of Kerry view.” Yesterday’s blog began with a description of how very narrow the roads are round the Ring of Kerry—how they have no shoulders and how it is impossible to meet another wide vehicle in many clip_image004places. Well, yesterday’s roads were freeways compared to some we encountered this day. Roads were walled in on both sides (and very often overhead as well) by trees and shrubs. If we met so much as a Volkswagon Beetle, it would have to drive in reverse until it came to a turn-off of some sort so that we could pass.
clip_image006We cannot hope to describe the beauty of the Ring of Kerry—its mountains, Kenmare Bay, the Atlantic Ocean off the rocky coast, and photos (even if we had time to post them) could never do it justice. Oh, and there is a good reason they call this the Emerald Isle.
On our return route we visited the summer home of DanielO’Connell, The Liberator, who played such a huge role in Irish history and Fort Staigue, clip_image008constructed by the Celtic peoples probably before the birth of Christ. Here we also learned more about the mischievous Wee People of Ireland. Upon leaving the fort Mike Welch decided he would rather hike back to Sneem—a three hour jaunt over the mountain. He repeatedly asked for some company on the walk, but there were no takers. Just as he was about to embark alone, Greg (a.k.a. Brave Heart Smith) volunteered. They report a most invigorating hike and were glad to have made it.
By the way, I hate reading accounts of trips that keep saying, “and then we. . . and then we . . . and after that we . . .” You’ll come to hate ‘em too, after this posting.
And then we enjoyed leisurely afternoon of free time wandering around Sneem. Several among us took in the Wife Carrying Contest being held in conjunction with the village’s Family Festival. You’ll have to ask others about that, as your blogger fortunately had urgent business elsewhere.
Sneem is a small village of perhaps 600 supported largely by tourists who come to see the beauty of County Kerry. As small as it is, we counted five business establishments sporting the name of our ancestors, O’Sullivan—including the restaurant where we ate and the pub where we enjoyed traditional Irish music and dancing. Trudy, Mike clip_image010W. and Kay B. led everyone in the pub in a great rendition of Sweet Molly Malone. Try as we did, we couldn’t get Edna in front of the mic.
We could name in this blog the five members of our party who went pub crawling after the other 28 of us turned in for the night. And we could tell you that even after they got back to the hotel they refused to call an end to their revels but instead crashed a wedding dance going on elsewhere in our hotel. We could tell you their names, but that wouldn’t be fair to Bobbi Ann, Becky, Ric, Jeanne D., and Trudy. So we won’t. Neither will we tell you which two of those showed the natives how to dance American country-western style. You’ll just have to guess.
An Irish Blessing:
May your troubles be as few and as far apart as my Grandfather’s teeth.











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